Roma!

So, I'm in Naples, but I figured I'd take some time to write about the first few days in Rome. I wrote everything down on paper as I went along, so I'll just copy what I have here:

Friday, March 16
So, we're in Rome.

At first, I was a little worried we weren't going to actually make it here. We got to the airport, and we went to the wrong terminal. We were sitting there, trying to figure out why our flight wasn't coming up on the board (since it was an hour before it was to take off) when we finally went into the main area and promptly realized we needed to be in terminal 2.

After a quick sprint, there, we checked in relatively quickly, got our passports stamped (#8) to leave the Czech Republic, got through security, and eventually got on the plane, which was full of what looked like an Italian high school trip. Or, more accurately, it looked somewhat like Hills East would have looked like had it been an Italian high school trip.

We get to Rome, get our luggage, and get on the train to get to the center of the city without any major mishaps. After a minor freakout wher I thought that a) the train was going to take over an hour to get to the city center (it didn't) and b) that we were going to get fined 25 Euro because we hadn't stamped our tickets (even though I was proud of myself for reading the entire sign in Italian) we got to the Termini station without any big problems. We also successfuly navigated the metro. However, when we get to the Garbatella metro stop, we discover that a) Emily has lost the map that that the hostel had sent us, which I had given her to hold, and b) the area of Rome we are currently in isn't even ON the map that the tourist office at Termini had given us.

We wandered a bit, and asked a policemand near the station for directions. I asked in Italian, so I waws proud of myself for being able to do that, but he had to ask someone at the newsstand for directions. Clearly, not a good sign. He proceeds to direct me - in Italian - to make a left, a right, go across the parking lot, up some stairs, etc. It's days like this where I miss the gridlike order of (most of) Manhattan. Even Prague seems less complicated than this.

Three sets of Italian directions later, it is clear that we are a) going in a gigantic circle and b) lost. I'm extremely frustrated, and it's clear Emily isn't happy either. We have no idea where we are.

More directions and one false alarm later, we finally arrive at the hostel. It's alright - nothing terribly nice to speak of, but the crowd is really international, so that's cool. We decide to head back into the center of the city for dinner. We ask the owner of the hostel how to get back to the metro - because there has GOT to be an easier way than what we did - and she directs us to a window, where she proceeds to show us that if we cut across a parking lot, we could be on the metro in a matter of minutes. We quite literally could have thrown a rock and hit the metro station, instead of spending half an hour wanderiing through the streets of Rome's equivalent of Prague's Holesovice or Zlicin neighborhoods.

We went out to dinner near the Coliseum, which is pretty impressive in person. I can't wait to see it in the daylght. I was proud of myself for eating in an Italian restaurant, and my Celiac card made sense to the waiter. Even better. Even better than that, is all the gelato in this city. Worse comes to worse, I can survive on that.

Saturday, March 17

Today was exhausting, but in the best way possible. Emily and I managed to knock off about half of hour to-do list for the entire trip (and almost get our money's worth out of our 11 euro 3 day metro passes.) Needless to say, it's about 10 pm and I'm exhausted, even if it is going to take a lot of Nyquil and some hostel-provided earplugs to drown out the disco next door, which proved to be somewhat difficult to deal with last night.

We woke up this morning and got on our way pretty quickly. The morning was square-themed, and not in the uncool way. Piazzas are a huge part of Italian city culture, and a lot of these were pretty amazing to see. We saw the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, and Piazza del Popolo, among others.

After lunch (Risotto again - this city seriously makes me wish I didn't have celiac) we headed to the Coliseum. Taking the guided tour proved to be a smart idea, as we got to skip the queue, and we even got half-price tickets (although that was for being a student. It was pretty amazing to see. I can only imagine what it was like during ancient Roman times.

We hit the Roman Forum, Palantine Hill (the site of the first settled Roman community) and the Pantheon. By this point we're both exhausted, and it's getting late, so after a quick gelato break, we headed back to the hostel before dinner.

One of the most interesting parts of this trip so far is our hostel. It's certainly a different experience when you don't take over the whole thing (Budapest) or have a private room (Vienna.) Because of price restrictions - Rome isn't a cheap city in terms of hostels - we oèpeted to take two beds in a six person dorm and share with complete strangers. Two are from the Canary Islands -they're nice and don't talk much - and one is this Irish guy who is in town for the Ireland-Italy rugby game that happened earlier today. The city is full of Irish rugby fans. I never expected to see so many green jerseys and shamrock hats in the middle of Rome. This guy REALLY likes to share his opinions about everything with any of us who will listen (and, clearly, thos of us who might not want to because we've JUST WOKEN UP) about traveling, rugby, various cities, including New York, which he's apparently never been to, and this is all after stumbling home drunk at 6 am, nonetheless. He did lend us his Rome guide book though, which I'm now loathe to give back, as I've grown quite attacked to it over the past twelve hours. I guess everyone serves some kind of purpose.

Sunday, March 18 and on.

Today was slightly less exhausting than yesterday. We went to the Vatican this morning, which was incredible. St. Peter's was amazing. Every time we head out to see another church, I always think "do I really need to see ANOTHER church?" but they always wind up being pretty incredible, especially this one.

We also saw the tombs of the popes, which was kind of spooky, in a "so this is a room full of dead Catolic leaders" kind of way. It was really interesting to see people praying at the tomb of the pope of their choice, particularly John Paul II, who had quite a few visitors. We also watched a random baptism - apparently all you have to do to get your kid baptized at the Vatican is make a reservation. You think it would be harder than that.

We were going to go to the Sistine Chapel, but it was closed, so we were going to head over yesterday morning (the 19th) before we picked up Graham at the train station, but after hiking all the way up there, we discovered it was closed again. It was a good thing we didn't try to go this morning, because according to one of the girls who was staying in the hostel after the Irish guy and the girls from the Canary Islands left (all of our new roommates were American) there was a four hour line that wrapped all the way around the building and most of the walls around Vatican city this morning. There was no way we were going to get there. Our train was leaving in a little over two hours.

Yesterday we had done some sightseeing repeats with Graham, who just got in yesterday afternoon, and this morning we took to the train down to Naples. Stephanie and Jon were supposed to meet us in Rome and we were all going to take the train together, but they missed their flight from Belgium. Supposedly they'll be arriving in Naples soon.

Naples seems alright so far - we haven't seen too much of the city, but our hostel is really nice. We're going to head to Pompeii and Vesuvius sometime in the next few days, although we might have to scratch Capri due to weather. Something always has to give, right? The weather was great at the beginning of the week, but it's rapidly going downhill.

I'm still alive, I haven't died from the food, but I am getting a bit jealous of the fact that everyone gets to eat pizza besides me. Oh well.

I'll write more once I've seen more of Naples and the surrounding area, probably when I get back to Prague on Friday, and I'm not on the Euro anymore. I'm starting to take how cheap everything is in prague, for granted, apparently.

Pictures are coming soon.

Watching C-SPAN, except live

Today, we went on a tour of the Czech Parliament for my international reporting class, to see how Czech journalists cover politics. Normally this doesn't happen when the Parliament is in session, but my reporting teacher knew someone, and here we were. It was fascinating, to say the least, because we got to talk to journalists from several different outlets - one of the big TV stations, and CTK (basically the Czech AP or Reuters), so it was cool to see the different approaches they all had.

My favorite part of the whole thing was getting to sit in the gallery and actually watch the parliament in action. I didn't understand anything, because it was all in Czech (and very fast Czech, at that) but it was interesting to observe nonetheless. I managed to see the prime minister, although we didn't get to see his mistress, since she apparently wasn't around right when we were there. I really felt like I was watching C-Span, except it was in Czech, and I was actually there. It was pretty cool.

American newspapers won't hire me, but the Czech ones seem to like my photographs

http://launch.praguemonitor.com/en/43/life_in_prague/2969/

They screwed up the photo credit, but I took that photo! NYU in Prague started a student journalism website, and I contributed a few photographs (only one of which actually made it on) and the Prague Monitor - the largest English-language daily publication, picked up a few articles. Now only if they had the right credit...

And in the morning, I'm making...latkes?

Last night, I managed to successfully turn this:



Into this:



By doing this:



Needless to say, I'm quite proud of myself.

Even if it did come out of a box.

Where am I going, where have I been?

First off, major points if you get the title reference.

Secondly, my apologies for updating so infrequently. There really isn't much going on here. We've been in Prague for the last few weeks, with the exception of a detour to Dresden, Germany last Saturday. The fact that I can just head over to another country for a day hasn't gotten old. Other than that, midterms have mostly been keeping me in Prague. I only had one test, but I had several papers and articles due over the last week or so, and a presentation in my Varieties of Contemporary European Cultures class. I wrote a paper on my search for gluten-free food in Prague for my Travel Writing class - I figured I may as well write about something that really affected me, and I may as well capitalize off of this somehow.

We're headed to Italy on Friday for spring break. I'm really excited about it. Emily and I will be spending a few days in Rome, and then meeting up with some friends and heading to Naples. We'll also be checking out Capri and Pompeii and Vesuvius. Should be a great week. I have a bit of a cold though, so I'm hoping that goes away. I'd rather not have the flight to Italy be the most miserable two hours of my life if I can help it.

Trying to buy cold medicine today was interesting. I was attempting to get by with cough drops, since Halls are the same in the U.S. as they are here, but I had to give in this morning and go to the pharmacy. The pharmacist spoke very little English, as most people directly outside of the city do. I realized as soon as I got there that I should have looked up the generic names for what I wanted, because the only thing I could ask for was ibuprofen, and I already had a perfectly good bottle of that sitting on my desk in the dorm. I managed to explain (somehow) that I had a cold and needed something for it, and she gave me what I'm guessing is the Czech equivalent of Tylenol Cold or Dayquil. The only thing I know is that it has pseudoephedrin in it and won't make me drowsy. I can't tell if it's working otherwise though.

Today marks two months since I left New York. It's going really fast. The program's half over already. While there's plenty I can't wait to get back to New York, there's a lot I'm going to miss about being here. A lot of people are traveling after the semester ends, but I feel like I'm going to be ready to get back to New York by the beginning of May.

On the other hand, I hear the weather's miserable in New York, and it's been in the 50s here, so maybe I'm not ready to go home just yet.

random prague ramblings

My apologies for getting so behind in updating this. Things have been quite hectic here with midterms coming up and all. We didn't go anywhere this past weekend, although we might take a day trip to Dresden, Germany this Saturday.

One thing that's been bothering me over the past few days is how, when I go food shopping, I can't seem to find certain things that I wouldn't ever have to worry about buying in the states. It's not that I want skim milk or soup or anything like that - I've more or less admitted that those just aren't going to happen here - but we went to Albert (our local supermarket) on Sunday, and not only could we not find ricotta cheese (which lead to some very improvised, although very good, lasagna) but I couldn't find baking powder or brown sugar - two things I wouldn't even need to think about buying back home.

I don't know. I just thought it was weird.

In other news, we're going to Italy for spring break, so I'm really excited about that.

a camera-less weekend in Vienna

Rachel, Emily, and I headed over to Vienna this past weekend for Emily's birthday. It was the first trip that we planned ourselves, and it went off without a hitch, so I was pretty happy about that.

Overall, I liked the city a lot more than I liked Budapest. I'm not quite sure why, although (among other reasons) I'm sure the fact that we weren't traveling with half of the dorm had something to do with it. The city was beautiful though, and I really liked everything we saw.

We got there Friday afternoon and, after successfully navigating Vienna's public transportation system, checked into our hostel. Considering that we picked it somewhat-randomly off of hostelworld.com, I thought we made a good choice - apparently the one that some people from our dorm went to a few weeks back was run by a prostitute, or something like that. The only thing that I was slightly sketched out about was the fact that we had to pick up our keys at the cafe next door since the hostel staff was only on duty from 9-noon because it was the off-season. The lady who ran the hostel was really nice when we met her though, which is good, because I've heard that some hostel owners can be a little on the creepy side.

After that, we went for a very late lunch/very early dinner and then walked across town to see Parliament and City Hall. However, when we got to Parliament, I went to pull out my camera and discovered that I had managed to leave my memory card in Prague (more on this later.) The building was beautiful though, as was City Hall. In the winter, they turn the area in front of City Hall into an ice skating rink, so there were tons of people around, and it had a really cool atmosphere - it almost made me wish I could skate. After hanging out there for a little while, we got on the tram and went around the Ringstrasse - the street that runs around the Old City of Vienna. We got off about halfway around the ring and spent the next few hours hanging out in a cafe - Vienna has a big coffee/cafe culture, so we had really wanted to do that, and the place we picked wasn't touristy at all, which was really nice. By the time we were done with that, it was pretty late so we just headed back to the hostel.

Saturday was busy. We started off the day with breakfast and by checking out St. Stephen's Church in the center of town, which was pretty cool, and then we stopped and got some ice cream at a place recommended by some people in our dorm. Nutella ice cream is great, and I can definitely see how they wound up there four times over the course of the weekend, because I probably would have done the same thing. After that, we checked out another church, although you couldn't go inside this one, and then we went to the Naschtmarkt, this outdoor greenmarket and flea market that they have on Saturdays. We walked around and got lunch there, and then we headed to the Schonnbrunn, the summer palace of the Hapsburg Monarchs, which was incredible. It was probably my favorite thing on the trip, and I would definitely want to go back there if I ever go back to Vienna, which I definitely want to do at some point. After that, we went to another cafe and then got dinner for Emily's birthday. Sunday we got up early and got back to Prague around 4 in the afternoon.

I think the strangest part of this weekend for me was not having my camera. I was pretty upset that I didn't have a memory card with me at first. If I go anywhere, chances are there's a camera glued to my hand for most of the time - this is what I do, and at the very least, I had wanted some kind of documentation of my weekend - something that said that I was actually in Vienna, that I had brought some sort of physical evidence of it home, but it worked out well, in the end. Rachel said something to me at the beginning about looking at things differently when you aren't looking at them through a camera lens, and by the end, I could see what she meant. It was even a little more relaxing, in a way, although next time I think I'll remember to check that I have every part of my camera before I go anywhere.

Photos from Budapest

I've been a bit remiss in posting these, but here are some photos from this past weekend:


This is the castle we visited the first night after we walked across the Chain Bridge (the one that was in the last post.)




These are from St. Stephen's Basilica, which was easily one of the most beautiful churches I've ever seen.


The Parliament building. I would have really liked to go in.

Eating Burger King in Budapest, and other things I did this weekend (part one)

I now officially have my second and third stamps in my passport - one each for entering and leaving Hungary. We went to Budapest this weekend - my first non-NYU planned weekend excursion, and the second country I've been to in Europe. The city is absolutely gorgeous - I don't know if any picture I took can really describe the things I saw this weekend. I'll post more photos tomorrow, but here's one to start with:



This is the view from the Buda side of the Chain Bridge over the Danube river. The city is split into two parts, appropriately named Buda and Pest (pronounced "Pesht"). Our hostel was in Pest, and it was definitely the more cosmopolitan side of the city - there was far more going on there, so we spent the majority of our time there, but on the first night, we walked over the bridge and up this hill to the castle, where there was a labrynth we went through with oil lamps. It was creepy at first, but a lot of fun.

After, we wandered around the Pest side of the city for a little while, and, strangely enough, wound up at a Burger King. Granted, there were sixteen of us and no one's phones worked, so we needed a meeting place, but it was a little strange to spend part of my first night in Hungary, a city with a great culinary tradition - including far better goulash than the Czech Republic - eating french fries in an American fast food outpost.

Saturday morning, I was dragged out of my bed at our very cute hostel to go see the Parliament building and a church. I was initially against this, as I was exhausted and really didn't feel like I needed to see another church, but it turned out to be the most beautiful one I've ever seen (and by this point, I've seen quite a few chruches.) The Parliament building was great too, although we couldn't actually go see the inside. We thought we would be able to, but then we got there and found it barricaded and guarded by a bunch of cops in riot gear, owing to some riots that had taken place a few months back.

After, we went for lunch and then to a Van Gogh exhibit at a museum and then the House of Terror - a museum documenting the Nazi and Soviet occupations of Hungary. It was fascinating, in a creepy sort of way. They did a good job of being objective about the whole thing, which I'm starting to learn is importing when it comes to tackling history.

The weather was much warmer in Budapest, which was kind of surprising to me, because I didn't think it was that much farther south. Customer service was also better, which I wasn't expecting, because, like the Czech Republic, Hungary is a post-communist country. Prices were pretty comparable to Prague, if a little cheaper, and I found it kind of funny that I was converting prices to Czech crowns as opposed to U.S. dollars, like I do most of the time when I'm here in Prague, although I've started to stop doing that now.

I'm also somewhat glad that I'm not trying to learn Hungarian. It's not an Indo-European language, which made it look far more complicated than Czech already is.

Overall, this weekend was great. Next time, I would much rather travel with less peoplek which is why I'm glad that next weekend's trip to Vienna is going to be much smaller, but it was fun none the less. More pictures will be posted tomorrow.

rain, rain, go away

It rained here today, and when I was walking back to the subway I was reminded of being in New York. It was like when it snowed. There's something about weather that equalize, cities. No matter how nice, or how historic, or whatever they're like, the second it rains or snows, they're all exactly the same, and I'm suddenly caught between wanting to experience Prague in the rain and my urge to get inside and get out of the cold and do everything I do when it rains in New York.

dear U.S. health food stores: lower your prices

I just spent approximately $19.50 on GF food that would have run me at least $40, if not more in the states. I'm going to get back to the U.S. and cry.

I'm also starting to notice how ridiculously cheap I've become since I've gotten here. I've found myself saying things like "I don't want to pay 120 crowns for lunch!" (that's about $6 American, for the uninitiated.) It's a little sad, but I'm enjoying the fact that the standard of living here is slightly lower.

castles and hiking and monasteries, oh my

This weekend we went on a NYU-sponsored (read: "paid for") trip to Western Bohemia, another area of the Czech Republic. We went to Karlovy Vary, a spa town, and Loket, a town with a historic castle, among other places, and in theory, this should have been a great trip, but our tour guide was a bit of a dictator. He didn't believe in sticking to the planned itinerary (a.k.a the reason I woke up at 7 a.m. on a Friday morning to sign up for this trip) so there was a lot of hiking, because this trip was clearly about what he wanted to do. One of the first things he saw was my favorite though. We hiked up this mountain to see the ruins of this old castle, and that was pretty exciting (minus the couple falls I took at the end, of course).


We hiked up the mountain to see the ruins at the top (mostly obscured by fog here)


Ruins


The view.

I'll post more photos later, but if I don't get around to it, there will definitely be an update about our upcoming trip to Budapest.

"Do you see the end yet?" "Maybe it's just a mirage..."

Next time I go on an 8 km hike, it's going to be my idea, and it's going to be much warmer out.

We went to Western Bohemia this weekend. There will be a real update with pictures when I'm less frustrated with the world.

Frostbite & Bones: the Kutna Hora trip

Today we went to Kutna Hora, a town about an hour and a half outside of Prague. The town dates back to medieval times, so there was an interesting mix of baroque, neo-gothic architecture, with some communist-built buildings thrown in for good measure. It was bitterly cold, so my fingers and toes went numb pretty fast, and the first part of the tour - a visit to a gothic cathedral called St. Barbara's, and a silver mining museum (The town has a really rich history of mining - it initially prospered as the first site of currency production in the Czech Republic) - dragged on a little bit, although everything was still really interesting to see.

St. Barbara's Cathedral. This was built sometime in the 14th century.

After that, we went to lunch at a Czech-Mex restaurant. The fajitas tasted good, but the chips and guacamole consisted of...Doritos. I kid you not. It was an interesting, interpretation, to say the least. We then continued onto the Bone Church, which was the reason I signed up for this trip in the first place. Basically, the church is decorated with the bones of about 40,000 people. I think it's best to let the pictures speak for themselves. (Note: I'm not exactly sure why photobucket/blogger refuses to display the whole photo, or why that photo of the chandelier is sideways. If I can fix it, I will.)

Snow and other things

We got somewhere between six and eight inches of snow over the past few days. Everyone has been raving about how gorgeous Prague is in the snow, and I was inclined to agree with them for the first few hours that the snow was actually sticking to the ground. A day later, the snow has turned into half-melted New York-esque sludge, and I feel like I'm back in the city. It's a good thing my boots are waterproof.

I'm slowly adjusting to being here, although I'm starting to wonder when I'll be brave enough to eat out somewhere that isn't one of the vegetarian restaurants we found by campus. We've got a few big cooking projects in mind though (goulash, lasagna (with GF noodles!) that kind of thing...) so I'm definitely able to get by without going out, if I want.

Tomorrow we're going to Kutna Hora, which starts my next few weekends of traveling. The 3 weekends after that it's Western Bohemia, Budapest, and then (tentatively) Vienna, which should be exciting, but I'm going to be exhausted by the end of February. Budapest is definite now though, which is something else to look forward to.

Welcome to the Czech Republic, how may I not help you?

So after my two classes today (International Reporting seems like it's going to be great, and I'm sort of excited for History of Nationalism, but not as much) I set out for a trek out of my little Old Town bubble to the post office where the package I received was being held. I managed to find the post office without a problem, although it was about a 25 minute walk. However, when I got there, I get sent to four different lines before they refuse to actually give me my package because I don't have my passport on me. Apparently the 4 other forms of photo ID I had on me didn't count. The lady behind the counter knew exactly one English word - "passport" - and I can successfuly use about four phrases in Czech (one of them being "ice cream") so I'm now extremely thankful to the person behind me in line who was nice enough to translate. I still left extremely frustrated with Czech bureaucracy, although not as much as I was after I applied for my visa. Oh well. It was an adventure.

what if I don't want to let it snow?

After roughly three months of complaining that it isn't winter if I can go outside jacket-less, while wearing shoes with no socks, I checked weather.com this morning to find that it's expected to snow in Prague tomorrow. It's January, so this is expected, right?

Why am I suddenly not looking forward to it?

I feel like I've gotten very used to global warming, but I guess I was wrong. Part of me secretly wanted a winter without snow, one without cold. I wanted winter without it actually being that. I guess that won't be happening this year.

Classes started today. I only had one this morning, my Varieties of Contemporary European Culture class. It seems like it'll be really interesting, and it's nice and small - only about 15 people, which I'm certainly not complaining about after a semester in a 150 person lecture on Zionism. I'd rather not be a number if I don't absolutely have to. After lunch and a Tesco run with Emily, I'm killing time in the computer lab until my Travel Writing class at 4:30. I'm looking forward to this one, because it's one of my two journalism classes. Supposedly they're splitting it into two sections because so many people wanted to take this class, and if one is a little earlier (assuming it doesn't conflict with this other class I'm in) I might switch into it to make this gap in between classes slightly less awkward. We'll see.

Tomorrow I have International Reporting, my other journalism class, and History of Nationalism. I got to meet the IR teacher the other day, and the class sounds really interesting, because it's going to be a little less theoretical and a little more hands-on, which seems right up my alley. We'll see how those two actually go tomorrow though.

Tonight is the big group welcome dinner in the castle, and while my experiences with Czech food have been less than stellar so far, I'm really looking forward to actually seeing the inside of the castle, seeing as we didn't actually get to do that on the tour.

Greetings from the new Windy City

http://www.nytimes.com/2007/01/18/world/europe/18cnd-europe.html?ex=1326776400&en=c5dad3a3fd3b5703&ei=5088&partner=rssnyt&emc=rss

We didn't get a lot of the rain but the winds from this did hit the Czech Republic, and they were really intense - I kept thinking our kitchen window was going to blow in, and I almost got blown up against a building a few times when we ventured outside to go to the grocery store, but everything is a lot calmer now.

Yesterday we went on a tour of the Prague Castle area, but we didn't get to see the actual castle since it was closed, as was the cathedral that was attched to it, although that was gorgeous from the outside. The castle is up on a hill on the other side of the river, which made it even more windy and cold up in that area, although it was absolutely gorgeous, and we got a beautiful view of the other side of the city of Prague (the part where classes are, and where we live):



That view was easily one of my favorite parts of Prague so far.

After the tour, we went to a hockey game - it was our "cultural event" for the week (as opposed to going to the opera or the philharmonic) and it was a lot of fun as well. I wasn't sure what I was expecting, but the stadium was really nice - definitely nicer than where the Islanders are. Everything seemed really new. Slavia, the Prague team, lost, mostly because they didn't play well at all, but the game was still fun to watch. There was much less fighting than American hockey (I think I saw two fights total) and a lot more advertisitng. At first, I kept trying to figure out why both the icea nd the players' jerseys looked different than in the NHL, until I realized that there was a ton of advertising on both. Even the referees' jerseys and the cheerleaders had ads (both were sponsored by O2 and yes, there were cheerleaders/dancers, and they performed during the break between the first and second periods - I was shocked that they could stunt on the ice, even if it wasn't that complicated.)

Everyone wanted to go out after the game, since it was only 9:30 or so by the time we got out of there, a group of 20 or so of us headed up to Holešovice, the neighborhood where one of the other dorms is. After a brief detour in which we accidentally left one of the guys we were with on the train when we had to switch lines, we went this bar/club, Crossbar, that a lot of the kids who live there (and some people who live in our dorm) had recommended, but we were all thoroughly sketched out by it, and left about 5 minutes after we got there. It was full of all these crazy scupltures, and a lot of people who seemed much more at home there than we ever would have, and it wasn't because we were American. Emily said something about it being a place where they'd film a horror movie, and she was definitely right. It was like something I would have had a nightmare about. I'm not sure what those Osadni kids were talking about, but we couldn't get out of there fast enough.

We got back on the metro, which was thankfully right there, and headed back towards our side of town. Everyone decided to go to a club, so Emily and I just headed back to the dorm, since that's not really our kind of thing. We hung out in the suite with a few people, and I learned how to use Skype, which was really awesome, and it's free, which was cool in itself. Needless to say, if you want to talk to me, that's probably one of the best ways to do it.

We're going bowling tonight. Let's see if I'm as bad as it in Europe as I am in the U.S.

Tours and Trips

Yesterday we went on a tour of the Old Town. I've spent the last week or so walking through the area every day, because that's where our classes are located, but learning about the area from a historical perspective was fascinating. It was founded around the 1400s, during the reign of Charles IV, so there are layers and layers of history, and some really cool architecture - anyone into that would have had a field day on this tour. We also got to go onto the Charles Bridge, which I definitely want to try and walk all the way across this weekend.


Astronomical Clock


One of the Cathedrals on Old Town Square


View from the Charles Bridge. I feel like this would be really gorgeous at sunset.

We're about to leave for a tour of the Prague Castle, so there will be more pictures of that later.

Also, I skipped my last day of czech class because we had to sign up for trips, and we had to get to the NYU Center early to line up so we could get the ones they wanted, becuase they all had limited spaces. (And after that, I wanted to come back here and sleep.) After a mad dash to all the sign up lists to get what we wanted, the beginning of my travel list is:

Kutna Hora (the town with the Bone Church) - January
Western Bohemia - February
Cesky Krumlov (small town in Southern Bohemia) - March
Terezin - April

I think that's everywhere I'm traveling in the Czech Republic as of now. There's also a tentative trip to Budapest in the works for February, so I'm looking forward to that.

Jewish Prague

Today after Czech class, Emily, Rachel, and I went on a tour of Prague's Jewish quarter, which is just off Old Town Square. It was interesting to see, because Prague has a rich and storied Jewish history, which was all but wiped out during World War II (the Terezin ghetto is not far from the city) so now, aside from the surviving synagogues and the old Jewish cemetary, the area looked like 5th Avenue in Manhattan, with it's Louis Vuitton, Hugo Boss, and Lacoste shops, among others, albeit it looked like a 5th Avenue with fairy tale-like buildings. It was an interesting dichotomy.

Our tour guide was a walking encyclopedia of the Jewish history of Prague and Eastern Europe, which was kind of fascinating in itself, but the synagogues and cemetary we visited were incredible. The first one we visited, the Maisel Synagogue, was built in 1590, and was an interesting mix of Renaissance, Baroque, and somewhat Gothic architecture, from all the times int was renovated and destroyed, and there was an exhibit detailing the eary history of the Bohemian and Moravian Jewish ghettos. The Klausen Synagogue, also from the 1500s, was interesting to see as well, as was the Pinkas Synagogue, which was turned into a Holocaust memorial, with all of the names of Czech Holocaust victims written on the walls. There were at least 80,000 names, and they covered the walls of the synagogue. It was extremely moving, and it reminded me of back when Dad and I did the readings in the middle of the night for the Yom Ha'Shoah ceremonies at the temple.

The most fascinating part of the tour, and one of the spookiest, was the Old Jewish Cemetary, which was built in the 15th century. There are at least 12 layers of people buried there from the 1400s-1700s, one right on top of the other, and there are at least 12,000 tombstones, and that's not even one from everyone there. It was a little spooky to be there, just thinking about how many people had been buried there, including some prominent Jewish figures from that time period.





This last one isn't in the cemetary, but it's a picture of the Old Jewish Town Hall. You can't really see it here, but on the other side of that clock is a Hebrew one, which moves in a counter-clockwise direction to follow the Hebrew letters.

Czech Class, Day 3

I don't have a good ear for languages, which consequently means I'm not particularly good at Czech. I know we've only been learning it for 3 days, and that it's a really hard language, but it's a bit frustrating at times, since my mouth just can't seem to make half of the sounds it needs to. There's a lot of diacritical marks over the letters, which completely change the pronunciation of the letter, and in certain cases, such as the difference between R and Ř (note the little mark on top), where it changes from a normal, English-sounding pronunciation of "R" to some sound I can't even quite describe. It's more of a "rjjjzzzzhhh." I'm not quite sure where they got that one from, because it doesn't even sound like what you think any kind of R would.

At least now I can remember certain words, even if they are the really easy ones. I was kind of proud of myself when I asked for a "voda" (water) last night when we went out to dinner, even if that's one that sounds reasonably like English, or barring that, some kind of romance language.

Now as soon as I stop saying "excuse me" to people in English when I'm on the metro, it'll all be okay.

getting lost is the only way to find your way around

Note to self: Next time I'm on a tram, make sure that I get on going in the right direction, because I shouldn't cross the Vltava River, gorgeous as it may be, when I'm on my way home from class. That was an experience.

Orientation has been interesting so far. We went to Old Town Square yesterday, which is the big tourist center. Classes are in a building located just off the square, and that's really nice too. I seem to be learning my way around, but not knowing Czech is getting kind of interesting. Today we started intensive classes, but there's only going to be so much I'm able to pick up. At least now I can say please and thank you.

I felt particularly lost when Emily, Rachel, and I went food shopping yesterday at Tesco, a British import which seems to be analogous to Wal-Mart. I don't think I've ever been so excited to see American toothpaste and shampoo brands in my entire life, even if most of the labels on them were in Czech. Food shopping was a bit challenging, mostly because we didn't know enough Czech to tell what certain things were. Groceries are cheap here though, which is always nice.

On the same food note, I was super excited today to find Schar, this really good (and very European and not really available in the States) GF brand at this pharmacy near our dorm. It made me feel a little better about surviving in a country where everything seems to involve bread.

Today I finally got a hair dryer, which was a bit of an adventure in itself. I didn't want to get one at Tesco, where they were about 1000 crowns (roughly $50 American) so I went to this Radio Shack/Best Buy-ish electronics store next door. Nobody there spoke English very well, so it was a lot of pointing and sign language. Easy enough, until I paid and went to the back of the store with my receipt to actually pick up my hair dryer, where I proceeded to wait on a line for at least 15 minutes, while everyone else patiently waited for me (which I felt kind of bad about) with no one around to help the rapidly forming line of people waiting to get whatever they'd just purchased. It felt a little bit communistic, in a way.

I also got a phone, which I'm super excited about, because I feel a little more connected to the world. It was also cheaper than the U.S., which is a good thing, since I'm only using it for four months. It's with a company called Vodafone, which doesn't service the U.S., and all of the students on the program had cleaned the store closest to the Center out of the cheaper phones, so we went to Wenceslas Square (the center of the tourist area) to find another Vodafone outlet, and just took the metro home from there, after a detour to Citibank, because the other bank refused to cash my traveler's checks.

Tomorrow we have more intensive Czech, and I need to buy a metro pass, since I didn't get around to doing that today. Emily and I tried, but it didn't exactly work out, since the crazy lady running the booth tried to send us to a station that was on a different train line, and we didn't feel like heading all the way there when we'd been running around all day, and I don't think either of us were in any mood to find our way there after such a long day.

not as delirious, but still jet lagged

It's 8:31 on the morning of my second full day in Prague, and as far as my body's concerned, it's 2:31 a.m. and I should still be sleeping. I can't quite adjust to this whole time change thing. I couldn't sleep for most of the plane ride to Paris, and I napped for a few hours yesterday afternoon, even though everyone said you shouldn't, if you're trying to adjust to a new time zone. This led to me sleeping for about two hours last night, and then waking up for another almost-three before I could fall back asleep (for not as long as I'd like) because I'm still on New York time, even if I'm an ocean away. A full day of orientation activities should be fun when I'm running on this much sleep.

I'm here!

So after a very blurry day of travelling, I'm finally here. Still very jet lagged and kind of disoriented, but I'm here. It hasn't really registered with me that I'm in Europe yet, even though all of the signs are in Czech and everyone outside of the dorm isn't speaking English. I guess it takes a while - maybe once all the jet lag wears off.

I got to JFK around 2ish yesterday afternoon, met up with Emily, went through security, and spent the next two hours waiting at the gate so we could board. Normally, I'd be calling everyone in my phone book, but I left my American cell phone back in New York, so I wouldn't call me on that until I get home in May. I won't be getting back to you anytime soon if you do. Verizon doesn't get service in the Czech Republic, so I'll be getting a cell phone here.

Since that wasn't an option, we mostly just hung out, got the requisite slightly trashy magazines, and I discovered just how bad I really am at sudoku. Really - the puzzles were easy and I kept having to start over. Maybe by the end of this trip I'll actually figure out what I'm doing.

The flight from JFK to Paris wasn't bad, it was just really long. The six or so hours dragged on for quite a while, especially since I couldn't sleep. My body was still on New York time, which meant that it was really confused when I was trying to fall asleep around 8:30, because I was trying to get on a European schedule, which meant that it was 1 a.m. or so. I spent most of the flight reading, watching bits and pieces of Little Miss Sunshine, and playing the Who Wants to Be a Millionaire game that came on the TV. I kept losing, because it was the UK version of the game and I only know so much British trivia, but eventually I won the million.

Transferring through Charles de Gaulle airport was kind of tricky. It wasn't that everything was that hard to find, it was just that we had to take two separate trams to get where we needed to go - on the exact opposite side of the airport from where we had landed. No one had any real idea of where we were going, so you had a bunch of really tired NYU kids wandering around the airport at 5 a.m. It was fun. We had to go through security again to get on our flight to Prague, but once we got on the plane, I slept for most of the flight, seeing as I still thought it was around midnight.

Customs went fairly quickly - all they did was check our visas. I now officially have a stamp in my passport, which is very exciting to me, even though it seems a lot of people in the program have been to Europe before. It took us a while to get out of the airport though, because some people lost their luggage, and they had to figure out where it was and when it could be delivered to the dorm before we could get out of there. The bus ride to the dorm is kind of blurry, mostly because the jet lag was starting to kick in.

We got to the dorm and found our room, which is all the way at the top. When they told us it would be on the fourth floor, I thought they meant it would be up four flights of stairs, but each floor has two separate landings, so if the elevator is always this slow, it looks like I'll be getting quite the workout this semester. We apparently have the smallest double in the building, but we get charged less for it, so it's okay, and the stairs up to the study lounge (which has the only accessible balcony I've ever seen in an NYU building) are right outside our door, which will be nice and convenient when I need to print something.

The dorm as a whole is nice - really clean, pretty spacious - and from what I've seen of the neighborhood, it's nice too. I napped for a few hours, even though I know that's not what you're supposed to do when you have jet lag, and then we went on a walking tour, which basically showed us where the subway is, as well as a pharmacy, grocery store, and some of the local bars. After that, Emily and I went back and checked out the grocery stores with a few guys from our dorm. I bought some gum, for under a dollar. Czech crowns still feel like monopoly money to me.

Spent the next part of the afternoon getting to know some people on the program - everyone seems nice so far, and there were a few people I knew from beforehand, which is always good. I'm still a little disoriented and confused, mostly because I didn't really sleep last night, so as far as I'm concerned, I'm still on the same day as yesterday. Everything is just running into one.

Orientation is jam packed with tours and Czech history, and of course, learning Czech. So far, the only thing I've learned is that none of the letters actually sound like what they look like, or how they're pronounced in English ("ck" makes the "tz" sound, to give you an example.)

This could make things interesting.